By Kath Gannaway
There’s a lot of work involved in doing things the traditional way and for Mount Mary Winery in the Yarra Valley it’s a work ethic that’s proved itself over three generations.
Mount Mary is owned and operated by the Middleton family. Dr David Middleton, who is the son of the late founders Dr John and Marli Middleton, his wife Victoria and their three children Claire, Sam and Hugh, are all involved with Mount Mary in varying capacities.
Being named 2018 Winery of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion, the industry benchmark for Australian wine, is recognition of both the romantic vision and the well-established practices on which Mount Mary was founded.
“We don’t irrigate, we hand prune using the long cane pruning method, and we hand pick, and that definitely makes a difference for the fruit quality,” said David of the philosophy that holds true, that hands-on produces consistently excellent wines.
His parents planted the first vines on the Old Coldstream Road vineyard in 1971 and they were in good company with the likes of Dr Bailey Carrodus from Yarra Yering, Reg Egan from Wantirna Estate, Guill de Pury from Yeringberg and Dr Peter McMahon from Seville Estate, pioneering the resurgence of the Yarra Valley as a premium wine-producing region.
There was a romance in that renaissance era and David said for his father it was his love, particularly of the Burgundy region of France.
“My father was taken with Burgundy, loved the region and was fascinated by the wines,” he said.
“We were built on Cabernet, but the romance for him lay in Burgundy with the small holdings and family environment.
“That was the vision he had in mind when he created Mount Mary and we would love to retain that configuration.
“We don’t want to expand to volumes where we have to start to use bulk handling methods.”
The family aspect is also on firm ground with son Sam as wine-maker, daughter Claire Podsiadly as business manager, and, with the birth of a first grandchild eight months ago, potentially a succession plan in place.
“We’re saying the fourth generation of Mount Mary has begun,” David said, obviously pleased at the possibility.
While wine shows and medals have never been a priority for Mount Mary, David said they were proud and honoured to be chosen as Winery of the Year at the Halliday Wine Companion Awards night on 2 August.
It’s a significant accolade; not only best winery in the Yarra Valley… best winery in Australia.
“Well yes… in James’s mind it does,” David said a little hesitant to personally make such a big claim.
“To receive this commendation from such a renowned and well-respected wine expert as James means a lot to us and gives us great confidence for the future,” he said.
“James expressed his thoughts on why he decided to recognise Mount Mary in this way,” he said.
“The key reasons were our history, family continuity, consistency, our future vision and the creation of our Marli Russell white and red wines made from seven varieties we began planting in 2008.
“We have always felt we have a consistency and we have a loyal following but it’s nice to know someone else has been watching and enjoying what we are doing.”
The 2008 varieties are traditionally grown in the Rhone Valley of France and David said their vision in planting the vines was to continue to explore the potential of the unique Mount Mary site to create new and exciting wines.
Paying tribute at the awards night to the Mount Mary team, past and present, he said it was their efforts which enabled the winery to earn such an accolade.
“It is great recognition of their dedication to building on my father, Dr John Middleton’s, legacy while also showing great leadership to adapt and change in this ever-evolving industry.”
He said the award was also recognition of the Yarra Valley as a premier wine-growing region of Australia.
“It is the region that has the magic,” he said.
“It’s the Yarra Valley that has the ability to produce premier wines, something that was proven back in the 1800s that this area is terrific for growing Cabernet, so the magic is in the site and we are just trying to maximise what the site has to offer.
“Our wines now have a reputation for being well made and for having a good cellar life as well.
“One of the most pleasing things for us is that people will buy our wines when a baby is born and know they are going to open it on their 21st and it will be presentable.”
Perhaps a 2015 Mount Mary Yarra Valley Pinor Noir? Mr Halliday’s choice for Best Pinot Noir.
